Friday, June 13, 2025

Part 4: Nature's Gift for the Skin – Centella Asiatica Cosmetics and Solving Skin Concerns

Part 4: Nature's Gift for the Skin – Centella Asiatica Cosmetics and Solving Skin Concerns


4.1. Introduction: Beyond K-Beauty to the World, The Star of the 'CICA' Craze

In an era where "How's your skin today?" has become a common greeting, our desire for healthy, beautiful skin is greater than ever. Amid this trend, one ingredient has taken the beauty market by storm in recent years, forming a massive trend of its own: 'CICA.'

Countless products bearing the CICA name—from creams and serums to sheet masks—are flooding the shelves, and their popularity is soaring, extending far beyond K-Beauty to the global stage. At the heart of this CICA phenomenon is none other than 'Centella asiatica.'

The mystical herb that wounded tigers sought out for self-healing thousands of years ago has made a dazzling revival as a key ingredient for solving the skin concerns of modern people. In this chapter, we'll take a close look at how Centella asiatica became a skincare superstar, exploring the secrets behind its popularity and how it specifically helps with various skin issues, all backed by scientific evidence and clinical research.




4.2. What Exactly Are 'CICA' Cosmetics?

The term 'CICA' has become so mainstream that anyone with an interest in cosmetics has likely heard it. So, what exactly does it mean?

  • The Meaning of CICA: There are two main theories about the origin of the name 'CICA.' The first suggests it was derived from the first and last letters of Centella Asiatica. The second theory proposes it comes from the French word 'cicatrice' or the Latin 'cicatrix,' both meaning 'scar.' A combination of these two meanings has led to 'CICA cosmetics' being used as a general term for a product line focused on soothing skin that has been damaged or sensitized by external stimuli, helping to restore its natural recovery abilities and return it to a healthy state.

  • Popularity in K-Beauty: CICA cosmetics have rapidly emerged as a key ingredient driving K-Beauty trends. Korean consumers tend to prefer gentle yet powerful solutions to effectively manage skin that is easily sensitized by environmental pollution, stress, and frequent makeup use. Centella asiatica was recognized as the optimal ingredient to meet these needs, leading to the release of numerous CICA products in various formulations and concepts, which have been met with great enthusiasm.

  • Key Ingredients: While CICA cosmetics may use Centella asiatica extract itself, they often use highly concentrated forms of its specific active compounds to deliver its core benefits more effectively. As detailed in Part 3, these include the triterpenoid saponins: Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, and Asiatic Acid. These ingredients work individually or in combination to provide various effects, including skin soothing, regeneration, anti-inflammation, and antioxidation.

Ultimately, CICA cosmetics are the result of combining the traditional wound-healing and skin-protecting benefits of Centella asiatica with modern scientific technology. This represents more than just a passing fad; it shows an evolution in skincare based on a deep understanding of skin health and a trust in natural ingredients.

4.3. Using CICA Cosmetics for Skin Concerns: The Scientific Evidence

Thanks to their outstanding efficacy, CICA cosmetics can help address a wide range of skin concerns. Let's take a detailed look at how Centella asiatica works for each issue and the scientific evidence that supports it.

Soothing Sensitive Skin & Relieving Irritation:

  • Benefit: Easily reddened and sensitive skin due to environmental changes, stress, or unsuitable cosmetics is a common issue. Centella asiatica is exceptionally effective at soothing this irritated skin and alleviating uncomfortable symptoms like itching, stinging, and burning.
  • Mechanism of Action: Triterpenoid compounds, especially Madecassoside, regulate the skin's inflammatory response and reduce irritation through their potent anti-inflammatory action. This is achieved by inhibiting the production of inflammatory mediators, one of the root causes of skin sensitivity.
  • Clinical Studies: In human clinical trials, cosmetics containing Centella asiatica extract were shown to increase skin hydration and reduce Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL), thereby strengthening the skin barrier. Furthermore, in a micro-inflammation model induced by the chemical irritant methyl nicotinate, the extract demonstrated anti-inflammatory effects, proving its soothing capabilities. In one Korean clinical trial, 90% of subjects with sensitive skin who used a CICA cream expressed satisfaction with its skin barrier improvement effects.



Acne and Blemish Care:

  • Benefit: Red, inflamed acne and various skin troubles are a major source of stress for adults as well as teenagers. Centella asiatica can help alleviate acne-related inflammation, aid the recovery of damaged skin, and even have a positive impact on improving post-acne scars and hyperpigmentation.
  • Mechanism of Action: Its anti-inflammatory action reduces redness and pain in acne-prone areas. Some studies also suggest that its components may have antibacterial effects, inhibiting the growth of acne-causing bacteria (P. acnes). Furthermore, its ability to promote collagen synthesis helps regenerate skin tissue damaged by acne, contributing to the minimization of scar formation.




Wound Healing and Scar Improvement:
  • Benefit: As its nickname 'Tiger Grass' implies, the most representative benefit of Centella asiatica is wound healing. It promotes the recovery of minor cuts, scratches, and light burns, and can also help improve hypertrophic scars (including keloids) that may result from surgical sutures or deep wounds.
  • Mechanism of Action: Key components like Asiaticoside and Madecassoside promote the proliferation of fibroblasts and increase the synthesis of collagen (especially types I and III), the main structural components of skin tissue, aiding in the regeneration of damaged skin. They also help regulate the inflammatory phase of the wound healing process, which can inhibit the formation of scars caused by excessive fibrous tissue growth.
  • Clinical Studies:
    • Study on Split-Thickness Skin Graft Donor Site Scars (Jenwitheesuk et al., 2018): The group using a Centella asiatica extract cream showed significantly improved scar pigmentation between 4 and 12 weeks of treatment compared to the placebo group. The total score on the Vancouver Scar Scale (VSS) also showed improvement.
    • Study on a Polymeric Spray Film for Acute Wound Healing: The group using a spray film containing Centella asiatica extract (with Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, and Madecassoside) showed a significant decrease in the Pressure Ulcer Scale for Healing (PUSH) Tool score and exudate score compared to the control group. The average healing time was also shorter (4.6 days for the test group vs. 4.87 days for the control). No notable side effects were observed.





Alleviating Inflammatory Skin Conditions like Atopic Dermatitis and Psoriasis:
  • Benefit: Research suggests that Centella asiatica can help alleviate the symptoms of inflammatory skin diseases like atopic dermatitis, which involves chronic itching, inflammation, and dryness, and psoriasis, characterized by red patches and scaling.
  • Mechanism of Action: The extract inhibits the expression of key inflammatory cytokines like Interleukin-6 (IL-6) and Tumor Necrosis Factor-alpha (TNF-α). It also contributes to strengthening the skin's defense by enhancing the expression of Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) and Filaggrin (FLG) genes, which are crucial for maintaining skin barrier function. In a psoriasis animal model, the extract was shown to alleviate inflammation by regulating the JAK/STAT3 signaling pathway.
  • Clinical/Preclinical Studies: In an atopic dermatitis animal model using BALB/c mice, oral administration or topical application of a Centella asiatica ethanol extract resulted in decreased levels of inflammatory cytokines and chemokines, with skin symptoms recovering within four weeks. A Phase 2 clinical study on the "Efficacy and Safety of a Cream Containing Centella asiatica Extract for Treating Patients with Atopic Dermatitis" is reportedly underway, raising expectations for clearer human application results in the future.



Anti-Aging, Wrinkle Improvement, Moisturization & Elasticity Boost:

  • Benefit: Centella asiatica is also gaining attention as an effective ingredient for combating various signs of skin aging. It helps to enhance skin elasticity and improve fine lines by promoting collagen synthesis, and it cultivates a moist, healthy complexion by strengthening the skin barrier and boosting moisture retention.
  • Mechanism of Action: Key components like Madecassoside stimulate the production of collagen (especially Type I) in the dermis, reinforcing the skin's structure. They also contribute to increasing and maintaining the skin's moisture content by promoting the production of hyaluronic acid, a natural moisturizing factor. The plant's antioxidant effects play a vital role in slowing down photoaging by protecting skin cells from free radicals generated by UV rays and environmental pollution.
  • Clinical Studies:
    • Study on Photoaged Skin: When a combination formula containing 0.1% madecassoside and 5% vitamin C was topically applied to the photoaged skin of women aged 45-60 for six months, biometrical tests confirmed significant improvements in skin firmness, elasticity, and hydration compared to the placebo group.
    • Study on Skincare with Centella Asiatica Extracellular Vesicles: After 28 days of using a skincare product based on extracellular vesicles derived from Centella asiatica, improvements were observed in overall skin quality, including hydration, elasticity, wrinkles, redness, and pore condition.






4.4. How to Choose and Use CICA Cosmetics Wisely

With so many CICA cosmetics on the market, choosing the right one can be overwhelming. Here are a few tips for selecting and using them wisely.

  1. Check the Core Ingredients: Carefully examine the ingredient list. Instead of just "Centella Asiatica Extract," it's better to choose products that also specify the key active compounds: Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, and Asiatic Acid, or those that indicate their content levels.
  2. Look for TECA Content: TECA stands for Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica,' a raw material where the main active triterpenes are extracted to a high purity. Products specifying their TECA content guarantee a certain level of active ingredients.
  3. Choose the Right Formulation: Select a texture appropriate for your skin type and main concerns.
    • Creams/Balms: Excellent for moisturizing and protecting the skin; suitable for dry skin or when intensive soothing and regeneration are needed.
    • Serums/Ampoules: Highly concentrated with active ingredients for targeted treatment of specific concerns.
    • Toners/Mists: Good for refining skin texture and providing on-the-go hydration and soothing.
    • Sheet Masks: Provide intensive hydration and soothing care in a short period.
    • Cleansing Balms/Foams: Gently cleanse even sensitive skin while adding a soothing effect.
  4. Patch Test: Especially if you have sensitive skin or are trying a new product, it's safe to apply a small amount to a discreet area (like behind your ear or on your inner arm) and observe for 24 hours to check for any reaction.
  5. Consistent Use: The effects of CICA cosmetics are often experienced gradually with consistent use rather than instantly. Considering the skin's turnover cycle, it's recommended to use them consistently for at least four weeks.





4.5. Part 4 Conclusion: Centella, a Wise Choice for Skin Health

CICA cosmetics have established themselves as more than just a beauty trend; they are an effective skincare solution that can provide practical help for various skin concerns, backed by scientific evidence and long-standing tradition. From soothing sensitive skin to healing wounds, caring for acne, and preventing skin aging, the performance of Centella asiatica is truly versatile.

By accurately identifying your skin type and concerns and consistently managing your skin with a product containing the right key ingredients, you can undoubtedly experience the healthy, beautiful skin transformation that Centella asiatica offers.

In the upcoming Part 5, we will go beyond the skin to explore the various ways to eat and drink Centella asiatica for the health of our entire body and its amazing benefits. The allure of this plant is far from over!




Reference


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